Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities stay greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on

Kimberly Bean
Kimberly Bean

A professional poker strategist with over a decade of experience in tournament play and coaching.